「後斯德哥爾摩」後遺症：每次拿起咖啡時，不自覺想來一個令人口水流的kanelbulle。

英語世界稱之為cinnamon bun 的肉桂卷，我在香港是一定不會食的－立刻想起在Pret-á-Manger或Starbucks買到的一舊舊甜到不能入口的所謂糕點，食完驚有糖尿病。不過人在途上對食物的要求自然有所不同－旅行的前提是嚐鮮，何況在歐洲所有食物尤其pastry都要好吃得多吧？好在有嚐過，果然一試難忘。在斯德哥爾摩的四日，kanelbulle是我早餐和下午茶的不二之選。

瑞典語 Bulle 直譯為包或卷，而 肉桂卷或台譯肉桂小麵包（kanelbulle） 在瑞典咖啡店和麵包店當然不是唯一的口味－ kardemummabulle (cardamom bun 荳蔻卷）、vanilj raisin (vanilla raisin 雲呢拿提子乾)、apple，梨等，好多款都非常吸引，但我只能dedicate我有限的budget（約35 Swedish Krona＝約30港幣一個，窮遊來講有點奢侈）同quota（由於吳生不好甜食，無人share的關係，不能一餐試兩味）比肉桂、荳蔻同vanilla raisin。肉桂同荳蔻卷其實味道幾相似，因為肉桂卷其實都有用荳蔻－荳蔻是瑞典菜中不可或缺的香料。

可以毫不誇張地說，bulle 是瑞典菜的代表作之一，地位等於香港的菠蘿包或蛋撻。每年10月4日瑞典人甚至慶祝肉桂卷節（Kanelbullens dag）。這節日成立於1999年，沿於瑞典的Hembakningsrådet（「家庭烘焙委員會」）一項marketing scheme－當時他們正在尋找一種方式來慶祝組織成立四十週年，他們認為秋收是慶祝瑞典烘焙傳統的好時機，因此將肉桂卷節定於秋天。何況肉桂一向是秋天的味道，成件事好make sense。其實除咗呢日，剩下的364日瑞典人差不多每日都食肉桂卷－在2010年瑞典人每人平均食咗316件bulle，全體國民食咗嘅肉桂卷加埋重 148,766,006公斤，相等於 350,000隻駝鹿的重量。可見肉桂卷在瑞典日常生活中有幾重要。當然這點同瑞典人的生活習慣 fika 有關。

好的肉桂卷入口略為鬆脆，層層均勻牛油香，甜而不膩，滲出溫暖的肉桂荳蔻香；雲呢拿同提子乾相得益彰。瑞典人多配齋啡，剛好平衡甜膩。在斯德哥爾摩四日嘅早餐、下午茶都有肉桂卷嘅蹤影，水準有超班有一般，以下推薦兩間入到去想食勻所有pastry的bakery。

Post-Stockholm symptom: now everytime I grab a coffee I crave for a sweet kanelbulle.

The Americans and Brits call it cinnamon bun, a name that immediately remind me of those sugary mass of butter and sugar with heavy cream cheese icing in the fridges of Pret-a-Manger or Starbucks - I would normally never put one of those in my mouth in fear of sugar overdose. Travelling, however, prompt me to open up my taste buds and give it a try. After all, everything in Europe tastes much better by default, right? I’m so glad I have - in the four days there they had quickly become my go-to breakfast and snacks.

Bulle translates directly as bun or roll, and cinnamon bun (kanelbulle) is far from the only bulle flavour available in Swedish cafes and bakeries. There is kardemummabulle (cardamom bun), another popular flavour which quickly became my favourite - vanilla and raisin, and a combination of fruits such as apple, pear, etc.

It’s probably not exaggerating to say that bulle is one of the most important things in Swedish life; there is even a Cinnamon Bun Day (Kanelbullens dag) celebrated every 4 October. Cinnamon Bun Day was established in 1999 when staff of the Hembakningsrådet ("Home Baking Council") were looking for a way to celebrate their fortieth anniversary, and they thought the season of autumn harvest is a good time to celebrate Swedish baking tradition by highlighting the national favourite.

A good bulle boasts flavours of cinnamon, cardamom, vanilla and buttery sweetness, with only a light drizzle of icing. Unlike its North American counterparts, the Scandinavian version leaves your tastebud satisfied and wanting more, not stuffed, perfectly balanced with a well-made drip coffee for an enjoyable fika (Swedish coffee breaks). During the fours days in Stockholm, I got my hands on the bulle whenever I can.

Usually when it comes to travel eatery research I’m very devoted, but since I have to research for 9 cities in a go it leaves no room for carpet scanning style study whatsoever. So I trusted whatever came up on top in Google and TripAdvisor search. In this case it’s been going well. Tried these two and both were great.

Vete-Katten

斯德哥爾摩老字號

這間老店走elegant and causal的路線：優雅裝潢、吸引display和精緻的糕點非常適合high tea。始創於1928年，店的名稱可以解釋為”the cat knows” 和“the wheat cat”。 他們的網站說，創始人是位女強人，渴望經營一間全部起用年輕女性的餅店，在當時斯德哥爾摩來講走得很前。

這店位於購物區，但以其名氣來說似乎未被遊客攻陷－我們只見到少數亞洲遊客，更多本地人聚餐或以pastry送好書，享受一個人的時光。除了a-la-carte的麵包西餅外這裡亦提供特別的午餐和下午茶菜單。

This establishment is on the higher end: elegant interior, splendid display and delicate pastries and cakes fit for high-tea. Founded in 1928, the name of the bakery in Swedish can mean both “the cat knows” and “the wheat cat”. Their website says that the founder was a strong lady who aspired to run a business employing young women exclusively, which was pretty pioneering back in the days.  

It’s near the high street shopping area, but it didn’t seem like a tourist swamp - we saw mostly locals enjoying lunch and pampering them with good pastry and a good read, with a few Japanese or Korean tourists only. They also serve lunch and afternoon tea with special menus.

Address／ Kungsgatan 55, 111 22 Stockholm 
(Metro stations: T-Centralen and Hötorget. Bus 1, bus stop Hötorget or Vasagatan)

Hours／Mon-Fri 07.30-20:00, Sat-Sun 09.30-19.00, Bank Holidays 09.30-19.00
Website

Fabrique Stenugnsbageri

優質連鎖店

A good example of random goodness. I didn’t come to this one by research but walked right pass it on Sunday morning in Södermalm, the hipster neighbourhood in Stockholm and decided to grab some breakfast before further exploration. The long and narrow store didn’t waste any space in displaying fresh pastry and bread. I picked up a vanilla raisin bun and a latte and headed upstairs to a small mezzanine with a few tables. The friendly lady who manned the counter doubled as barrister took the time to chat with customers and made a good latte, which paired well with the velvety vanilla and sweet raisin. Very comforting and satisfying breakfast. The lingering taste of vanilla left me wanting another one.

Turns out this belongs to a local chain store that has 14 stores in Stockholm and 3 in London. Below listed 3 stores close to major attractions and train station which you can swing by before or after your visits.

一個「隨機就是最好安排」的例子－沒有預先研究來這裏，星期天早上在Södermalm－斯德哥爾摩的hipster區－隨意散步並決定在進一步探索之前食個早餐。長而窄的店面無浪費空間展示新鮮的糕點和麵包。我點了香草提子乾bulle和拿鐵咖啡，走上樓上一個有幾張桌子的閣樓。友善relaxed的金髮女孩一人兼顧櫃檯、沖咖啡與顧客聊天，並沖了一杯幼滑拿鐵，與香草和提子乾的香甜配得很。非常安慰和令人滿意的早餐。 流連在口腔的香草味道讓我想立即來多一個。

原來這店屬於在斯德哥爾摩有14家店和在倫敦有3家店的當地連鎖店。下面列出的3家商店靠近主要景點及車站，你可以在觀光前後來個 fika。

Gamla Stan Store

Address／Lilla Nygatan 12, 111 28 Stockholm
Hours／Mon-Fri 07:30-18:00, Sat-Sun 08:00-16:00

Central Station Store

Address／Centralplan 15, 111 20 Stockholm
Hours／Mon-Fri 06:00-21:00, Sat-Sun 08:00-20:00

Website 
(The website doesn’t have English version to date of this article.)